Expert appliance repair in your Brooklyn home

Typical culprits are dust-clogged condenser coils, a seized evaporator fan motor, a defrost system failure (defrost heater, defrost thermostat or defrost control board) or a faulty compressor start relay.

Usually an obstructed defrost drain tube, a cracked water supply line to the ice maker, or an improperly seated water filter cartridge.

Frequent causes are a frozen fill tube, a malfunctioning water inlet valve or a defective ice maker assembly.

Usually a failing evaporator or condenser fan motor. Less often, a deteriorating compressor.

Check the drain hose for kinks first. Otherwise it's usually a blocked pump filter, a foreign object in the impeller or a failed drain pump motor.

Often a defective lid switch or door lock assembly, a worn drive belt or motor coupling, a faulty shift actuator, or an unbalanced load tripping the sensor.

Usually a torn door boot gasket, a loose or ruptured fill hose, or a worn tub seal or pump seal.

Residual water may still be in the drum, or the door lock mechanism or control board has malfunctioned.

On electric dryers it's usually a burned-out heating element, a blown thermal fuse or a failed high-limit thermostat. On gas dryers, a weak igniter or faulty gas valve coils.

Usually a broken drive belt. A seized idler pulley or worn drum rollers can also stop the drum from tumbling.

Most often a lint-clogged exhaust vent or a crushed vent hose restricting airflow. Less often, a failing heating element or cycling thermostat.

Typically worn drum rollers, a dry idler pulley or worn drum glides and bearings.

Usually a clogged filtration assembly or obstructed spray arms. Sometimes a weak circulation pump or a faulty water inlet valve limits water pressure.

Often a clogged filter, a blocked drain hose or air gap, an uncleared garbage disposal knockout plug, or a failed drain pump.

Usually a deteriorated door gasket. A malfunctioning inlet valve, a stuck float switch or a worn pump seal can also cause leaks.

Often a defective door latch switch, a blown thermal fuse or an electronic control board failure.

Often clogged burner ports, a cracked spark electrode or a misaligned burner cap. Sometimes the spark ignition module has failed.

On gas ovens it's usually a weak hot surface igniter. On electric ovens it's usually a burned-out bake or broil element.

The oven temperature sensor may be failing, or the thermostat needs professional recalibration.

Usually moisture intrusion after a spill, or a faulty spark switch behind the control knob.